Wearing Thin: Picking the Perfect Fibre Weight & Content

So you're getting ready to start a new crochet project and it's time to choose your yarn, huh?

A lot of us love this stage in a crochet project: the excitement of a new pattern or own design, the excuse to buy new yarn... the possibilities seem endless!

But there are a few common questions and/or problems which may arise when collecting your raw materials:

• What fibre weight is best for my project?
• What fibre content is best for my project?
• What colour(s) or colourway do I want to use?
• The pattern I'm using recommends this one brand, but I can't find it anywhere- what am I meant to do?!
• And do I really need to buy more yarn? Can't I use this stuff I already have here in my stash? It's kind of similar...

Have no fear! In this blog post I'm going to cover the first two considerations: picking the right fibre weight and content for your project. 

When you've finished reading, check out my blog post here for tonnes of online resources to help you pick specific yarn brands and colours, and to learn how to substitute yarn across brands based on fibre content, colour, weight, recommended hook size and meterage/yardage!

 

Fibre Weight

You may find that most of your crochet time is spent working from a pattern which clearly specifies a required yarn weight for the project. If so, please listen to the pattern designer. We (usually) know what we're talking about- at least when it comes to our own designs! Unless...

You may find some designers explicitly give you the option to choose your yarn weight. Some patterns can be designed to work with different yarn weights! These designs are usually made to measure and, as long as you change the size of your hook to one recommended for your chosen yarn weight, they'll work within a range of yarn weights.

This usually comes with some limitations. For example, a pattern which is originally intended for Size 1 yarn (fingering, 2ply) and a 2.5mm hook probably isn't going to work the same with super chunky yarn and a 10mm hook, is it? It is not uncommon, however, for designers to state that a crochet pattern will work with either Size 2 or 3 yarn, or perhaps Size 3 or 4 yarn. 

 

Sometimes crafters also go off piste and use different yarns to those recommended in a pattern by choice. There are a few reasons for this.

For example, a pattern may require DK yarn, but you know you have this thinner aran/worsted weight yarn lying around in your stash that you've been just dying to use. You think- it's close enough... right?

Maybe it's the "chaotic good" in me or maybe I just like to encourage scrap usage and stash-busting in the interest of sustainability wherever possible, but my response is: GO FOR IT.

However, let me massively qualify this by saying that you should only be making deliberate deviations from a pattern designer's yarn weight recommendations if you have the experience and knowledge to do so in an informed way. And if you do so, you do so with the knowledge that if your project doesn't turn out how you'd like or you run into problems with the pattern that you've created by deviating from it- you're on your own.

Deviating from a crochet pattern is a bit like violating the warranty on an electronic by trying to modify it yourself: if you pry the back off of that PC and start poking around without really knowing what you're doing, you do so with the knowledge that, if you break something, Dell won't be coming to save you.

Similarly, if you deviate from a crochet pattern, you accept full responsibility for anything that goes wrong and you cannot expect the pattern designer to spend unplanned work time customizing a solution for you. 

That being said, if you value working creative freedom and sustainability choices into your crochet time, I am not going to be the person to warn you off any further! So here are some general considerations for choosing yarn weight, whether working from a pattern or your own design:

 

Sizing Up

Most people usually choose to work with a heavier weight yarn for the obvious reason: projects work up quicker!

Heavier weight yarns are thicker and use bigger hook sizes, so they take less stitches to create the same coverage that a lighter weight yarn would. That's an attractive prospect for people who struggle to work enough stitching time into their daily or weekly schedules.

However, heavier weight yarns have plenty of other stylistic and practical benefits too:

• Thicker, warmer finished projects- especially great when chunky-fying jumpers, hats, scarves and other winter wares.
• Structure- for projects which require three-dimensional elements or rigidity (think hats and corsets), using a heavier, thicker yarn weight will give you a much sturdier finished project. This is especially effective when paired with a relatively small hook size for your chosen yarn weight.
• Visual impact- thicker yarns have greater texture and stitch definition and overall achieve a highly charactered look which is currently very popular. 
• Mobility- thicker yarns are often easier to work with for those with hand mobility issues or otherwise the lesser deftness of newer crafters.

 

Sizing Down 

Choosing a lighter weight yarn will come with the benefits of lighter weight yarns, but it will also have one major draw back: increased work time.

Lighter weight yarns are thinner and require a smaller hook size, and so they take more stitches to create the same coverage that a heavier weight yarn would. That means more hours spent stitching, too. 

But what you spend in time, you get back in drape. Lighter weight yarns have better drape because:

• Lighter yarns have less mass- this means they weigh less per unit of length, so they resist the downward pull of gravity more, leaving them free to move with your body.
• Thinner yarns are more flexible- they bend more easily, even when twisted into a crochet stitch.
• Thinner yarns have fewer individual fibres, meaning less friction between fibres within the yarn itself- this also means the yarn can move more smoothly with your body. 

One of the main critiques leveled against crochet is that it creates rigid, uncomfortable garments. But when paired with blocking, crochet work with lighter yarns can be as supple and flowy as traditional sewn clothing.

 

 

Fibre Content

Yarn comes in a seemingly endless variety of fibres and fibre blends, but there are a few general categories which share similar qualities, each with their own pros and cons. You'll usually see these most common ones mentioned: synthetics, animal-based, plant-based and blends.

 

Synthetics

Synthetic fibres are man-made fibres, usually made from plastics. They are generally cheaper and can be made to be very durable and long lasting. The fact that they are moth and mildew-resistant and often machine-washable makes them easy to care for in comparison to many natural fibres.

They also come in a greater variety of colours which are more consistent across batches. However, synthetic fibres tend to not be very breathable nor absorbent, which may limit their appropriate use for wearables and functional housewares respectively. The most common ones are:

• Acrylic: This is by far the most common and these days acrylic can be cheap, super soft, easy to care for and come in every colour under the sun! But it is prone to pilling, generates static and is not very breathable. It has low-medium stretch.
• Polyester: Although usually used in blends (see below), 100% polyester yarns do exist and are usually unique, textural yarns. Think chenille and faux fur.

 

Animal-sourced

Animal-sourced fibres are most beloved for their excellent insulating properties and often incredible softness, making them very comfortable to some people and great for wearables. However, a lot of people unfortunately have allergies to some or all animal fibres, making all of this quite redundant!

Additionally, animal-sourced fibres are usually the most expensive and geographically-dependent, making them the least widely accessible. They are also particularly susceptible to shrinking and attracting moths if cared for or stored improperly.

• Sheep wool: Sheep wool has a lot of stretch compared to other fibres, making it very comfortable to wear, and is naturally moisture-wicking and fire-resistant. There's a reason people have worn it for centuries! But it can be particularly allergenic.
• Merino wool: Significantly kinder on the skin than regular sheep's wool, but significantly more expensive, too.
• Cashmere: A type of goat's wool that is even softer... and even more expensive and harder to care for. (Noticing a trend yet?)
• Angora & mohair: Both made from the wool of the Angora Goat, these are particularly soft and fuzzy fibres, but can be prone to static and are also quite pricey.
• Alpaca: Warmer than sheep's wool and more hypoallergenic, but less stretchy and still expensive.
• Silk: Technically silk is considered by some to be in it's own category as a "protein fibre" but because it is made from the cocoons of insects, I still consider it animal-sourced. Silk fibres are fabulously smooth and have natural luster without any allergenic concerns, but they are also expensive.
• Yak: Only used in blends to add additional softness comparable to cashmere, but with more durability. (It's also expensive.)

 

Plant-sourced

Plant-sourced fibres don't retain as much heat as animal-sourced fibres do, making them breathable and comfortable to wear. It is very uncommon for people to have allergies to them, making them hypoallergenic.

Plant fibres also tend to be very strong, even when wet, making them great for applications such as swimwear, rugs and other functional housewares. But like other natural fibres, plant-sourced fibres are prone to shrinking and molding, so they are not as easy-care as synthetics.

• Cotton: This is by far the most common and can be found in a wide variety of colours now. It has all the benefits described above, however 100% cotton has absolutely no stretch, making it uncomfortable for some people to stitch with.
• Bamboo: Fantastic drape, moisture-wicking and antibacterial.
• Linen: Very strong, but does soften with use.
• Hemp & Jute: Super strong fibres which come in a variety of weights and work well for housewares and bags.

 

Blends

Odds are you've already used a blend before! Blends are extremely common now as they're a way to combine fibres from the categories above to get the best of both (or all) worlds.

By blending synthetics with natural fibres, we are able to mitigate the cons of natural fibres (lack of stretch of plant fibres, expensiveness of animal fibres, etc) while minimizing the use of synthetic materials.

In a blend, we also get the strengths of those same natural fibres (breathability of plant fibres, warm retention or softness of animal fibres, etc) and the benefits of synthetics (better variety of colour choice, more budget-friendly prices, etc).

All of the fibres already discussed will show up in blends with one another, but here are a few more unique fibres to look out for:

• Polyamide & Nylon: Nylon is actually a specific type of polyamide, but they all add various degrees of durability, smoothness and elasticity. Polyamide and cotton are often blended together to mitigate the stiffness of cotton. Usually 10-25% of the blend's total fibre content.
• Viscose & Rayon: These are synthetic fibres made from natural products which are added to blended yarns to improve softness, moisture-wicking and drape. Usually 5-25% of the blend's total fibre content.
• Spandex: This is a synthetic fibre added to improve a blended yarn's shape-retention and elasticity. Usually 10-25% of the blend's total fibre content.
• Lurex & Metalized Polyester: This is the sparkly stuff! When you get a blended yarn which has an accent thread of metallic, glittery or otherwise lustrous fibre running through it, it's probably made of either of these synthetics. Usually 1-10% of the blend's total fibre content.

 

Other Considerations

 

Environmental & Human Costs

The environmental impact of the fibre arts is a hot topic both in the crochet community and wider craft & hobby spheres right now- as it well should be. 

However, this is an issue prone to heavy over-simplification, quick judgments and heavy condemnation of others based on incomplete information, algorithm-driven engagement and the selective empathy brought about by our inherently limited individual world views.

It is up to each of us to determine our own values and the point at which they intersect most optimally: namely, with minimal compromise on each value. At this point lies the course of action we should take. Here I will give only a brief overview of the environmental considerations of the three main fibre categories:

 

Whatever personal values you hold when it comes to the environmental and human cost of your hobbies, I only humbly ask that you regularly pursue up-to-date knowledge with best media literacy practices, practice true empathy and always try to give individuals the benefit of the doubt. Conversely, always regard businesses and systems with a healthy measure of suspicion. 

Remember that it is a good and beautiful thing to care for the natural world and your fellow humans- and that the collective efforts of humanity to these ends could still be impactful. And remember that the environmental impact of your hobbies is a drop in the ocean in comparison to the environmental impact of your nation's military and defense activities, and it's energy, manufacturing and agricultural industry sectors. 

 

Sensory Needs 

Sensory needs, both of yourself as the crafter and of the intended user of your finished project (if not yourself), are something which often go under-considered. Everyone has sensory preferences, whether or not you and/or your project's intended user have additional sensory needs due to other factors.

These may include neurodiversity (Autism Spectrum Disorder, ADHD, Sensory Processing Disorder, etc), mobility and physical conditions (arthritis, fybromyalgia, Parkinson's Disorder, etc), mental health conditions, skin conditions, allergies, repetitive strain injuries, age and cultural/ethical tolerances. 

It is important to always be mindful of these factors, both in yourself and anyone you plan to gift or sell completed projects to.

For you, as the crafter, consider the following in particular: 

• Textural sensitivity: Some fibres, such as wool, are allergenic or otherwise irritating to the skin, or can otherwise cause sensory overload to work with.
• Noise: Some fibres, like acrylic, can make an unpleasant sound when worked with, especially in humid climates.
• Dexterity: Light weight yarns and smoother yarns may be more difficult to work with and exacerbate pre-existing injuries or joint pain. Conversely, heavy weight yarns can be unwieldy and 'heavy' to work with and cause similar issues in a different way.

For the intended user of the finished project, consider:

• Allergies: It is especially important if you intend to sell items that you clearly state in all listings the fibre content of your items so customers can judge for themselves if the item is right for them. Be particularly mindful of using hypoallergenic fibres for baby projects.
• Ethical values: Consider before gifting items that the intended user may have different values than you and may, in particular, feel differently about the use of animal-sourced fibres.  

 

So How Do I Decide?

Now that you're familiar with the basic weight and fibre categories- their many pros and cons and all the other various considerations- you're probably wondering how on earth anyone ever picks a fibre.

No worries! Let me show you the practical approach I take to cut through the decision paralysis. When choosing fibre content for my next crochet project, here are the things I really take into consideration (in this order):

• Pattern recommendation
• Intended purpose of finished project
• Sensory needs of myself & intended user
• Environmental & human considerations
• Budget

 

Listen to the Pattern Designer

Firstly, if I am using a pattern and it recommends a particular yarn weight, I usually adhere to this. If I am working from a pattern, it's because I admire the designer's creation and respect their expertise. And sometimes I actually don't like to make things overly complicated for myself!

If the pattern recommends a particular fibre content, I look to see if the designer has included a rationale for this. Have they said what qualities in particular to look for in my yarn and why? If not, I use my best judgement based on the knowledge and experience I have accrued, my personal preferences and the other considerations we have discussed.

 

Intended Purpose of the Finished Project 

What am I making?

Is it a bag or a rug, which is going to need to stand up to heavy wear and tear? If so, I'm going to look to the heavier weight plant fibres. 

Is it a garment which I will wear often against my skin, which is going to need to stretch and move with my body, without pilling and while standing up to machine-washing? If so, I'm going to go for a lighter weight superwash synthetic-natural blend.

Am I making a jumper which won't be worn against my skin, which I want to be extra warm and cozy for wear at home? If so, I'm going to go for a mid-heavy weight acrylic because it suits my sensory preferences and budget best.

 

Sensory needs, Environmental & human considerations and Budget

Because these considerations are personal, I will say much less about them here. 

But when making products to sell, I try to avoid wools, especially on items which will be worn against the skin or near the face, as many people experience skin irritations from these. I don't often make projects for kids, but when I do, I look for particularly soft and tactile yarns.

I try to focus on using the yarn in my yarn stash and being a zero-waste crafter whenever possible. But when buying yarns, I try to buy ones which are made in the country I live in whenever possible. When my budget allows, I shop as small as possible, too.

And I encourage others to do the same, while being mindful of all of the many considerations listed above which may impact their ability to do so and which will influence their final decision when picking the perfect fibre weight and content for their next crochet project.  

 

Don't forget to check out my other blog post here, where I discuss and provide online resources to help you choose specific yarn brands and colours and learn the ins and outs of yarn substitution!